Why this diving chef believes seaweed is the secret to saving our food system

With food systems under pressure, could seaweed – easy to cultivate and rich in nutrients – be part of the solution? Author Rory Buchery heads to Sweden to join diver, chef and seaweed safari guide Carolina Martinsson for an algae-based cooking class.

A steep, slippery path through shallow water marks the entrance to the Sea Kingdom Scissors in hand, it’s time to brave the Nordic wind and forage for future meals.

I’m in Vrångö, An island in Sweden’s fjord-like Western Archipelago With local chef, professional seaweed diver and seaweed safari guide Carolina Martinson, whose work is as delicious as it is vital. Some days, Martinson takes guests into the water, either diving into the icy depths in a wet suit or snorkeling in the shallows and trimming oceanfront lawns.

Today, however, I’m staying on dry land and attending a seaweed cooking class with her. In front of me, a glossy plate displays 12 different types of seaweed in texture, color and smell – from gloopy and gritty, long and stringy to rubbery and spongy. By afternoon, I’m going to learn how to transform this bounty of seaweed—picked fresh this morning—into a delicious algae-based feast.

With growing populations and longer lifespans, our traditional food systems are under pressure and due for a sourcing overhaul. Martinson believes that seaweed – easy to cultivate on a large scale and rich in nutrients – could be the answer.

“I’ve been interested in seaweed for over 25 years, and I see a big change,” says Martinson. “In the beginning, I was one of the few people talking about this. I felt alone. Then about 15 years ago seaweed farming started properly in Sweden.”

In just over a decade, The effects of seaweed farming are already evident. East of Sweden, facing the semi-enclosed and shallow Baltic Sea, seaweed acts as an important sea-cleaning agent, absorbing the byproducts of intensive land cultivation and acting as a filter. “Seaweed does not retain PFAs (permanent chemicals), which makes it resilient to a major threat to our food system, especially in the oceans,” she says.

Although it is tempting to think of seaweed as equivalent to herbs or plants, it is actually an algae. “Seaweed is inherently different because it doesn’t have roots,” says Martinson.

Picking up long, dark green strands ready to be cut into bite-sized pieces, I see what Martinsson is talking about. As I clip the thick, textured seaweed, it releases an iodine aroma not unlike wakame, the seaweed salad popular in Japan.

The key to Martinson’s seaweed safari is learning how Sustainably harvest algae so that it is suitable for regeneration. Some seaweed clusters can be over 50 years old, so it is important that we know how to age them so that they can be harvested appropriately and the organisms survive. For example, in the case of egg wrapper seaweed, you can age it by counting the total number of eggs, as it produces a shiny, hard bead each year.

Like every earthly pleasure, seaweed has suffered the adverse effects of climate change. “As the water gets warmer and warmer, earlier and earlier in the season, the composition of the seaweed changes,” Martinson explains. “There are a lot of seaweeds that are very thin in their construction, and if they swell earlier, they fall to the bottom earlier, where they don’t produce oxygen.”

This is a life-threatening possibility, as the production of seaweed is estimated At least 50 percentage-and as much 70 percent– Earth’s oxygen. Additionally, by growing significantly faster than land-based plants, seaweed can sequester CO2 more effectively. Once absorbed by seaweed, the carbon dioxide eventually sinks to the ocean floor, where it is neutralized.

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